The Science Behind Skin Pigmentation and Uneven Skin Tone

When dark spots appear without warning, or post-blemish marks seem slow to fade, it’s natural to wonder what’s causing the change. These visible shifts in skin pigmentation are often the result of subtle changes in melanin production, influenced by both internal processes and daily environmental exposure.

Melanin plays a key role in how skin responds to these factors. Understanding how it’s synthesized and distributed, offers insight into why tone irregularities may appear over time. At NIOD, this understanding guides our approach. 

Our advanced skincare solutions target uneven pigmentation—such as dark spots, age spots, and dullness—to support a more balanced, uniform complexion over time. To better understand why these changes occur, we begin with melanin—its function, its behaviour, and its role in shaping the look of healthy-looking skin.

Melanin, the pigment responsible for giving skin its colour, is found in the deepest layer of the epidermis, known as the basal layer. It’s produced by cells called melanocytes, which live in the deepest layer of the skin. This process, called melanogenesis, impacts how different regions of the skin appear in colour. 

Melanin also plays a central role in determining pigmentation. Different types of melanin affect colouration, and the more the skin has of each kind, determines how much pigment is visible in the skin. As such, melanin production and distribution are central to how skin pigmentation is formed and how it can change over time. In addition to its role in pigmentation, melanin also protects the skin from UV light, by neutralising the damaging effects of harmful molecules known as free radicals. Several factors can influence this process, including those outlined below:

• Ageing: As the skin ages, melanocytes can become fewer and less active, leading to a reduction in melanin production. This can lead to uneven pigmentation or age spots, commonly seen in older skin.

• Genetics: Skin tone is largely determined by genetics, which influence how much melanin is produced and how it’s distributed. Skin color is inherited through multiple genes that influence the degree of pigmentation.

• UV Exposure: One of the main triggers for melanin production is ultraviolet radiation from the sun. When the skin is exposed to UV light, melanocytes increase melanin production as a protective mechanism against UV-induced DNA damage. This results in tanning, which is the skin's way of increasing its natural protection. 

While melanin offers a degree of natural protection, it doesn’t block all UV rays. When that defence is exceeded—often through prolonged exposure—sunburn and deeper cellular stress can follow. This highlights the need for daily protection, regardless of skin tone.

Prolonged, unprotected exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation can lead to significant damage to the skin and is associated with a range of skin concerns, including visible signs of premature ageing, irregular pigmentation, dehydration, redness and more.

NIOD’s Survival range—Survival 10, Survival 20, and Survival 30—was developed to address and prevent these concerns. These formulations combine broad-spectrum UV filters with ingredients that support the skin against visible and invisible environmental stressors, including oxidative damage resulting from UV exposure and the environment. These formulations share the use of various technologies including purified lutein, whose antioxidants counteract the adverse effects of blue light and increase visible dermal elasticity. The Survival range offers adaptable protection that complements the skin’s own defences, without disrupting its natural function.

Skin discolouration can appear in different forms, each shaped by a distinct set of internal or external factors. Below are some commonly observed patterns:

• UV-induced Discolouration: Prolonged exposure to UV light can lead to visible changes in skin tone, including freckles, sun spots, red patches, and other forms of pigmentation, including all those listed below.

• Post-inflammatory Pigmentation: This form of temporary discolouration appears after inflammation or injury to the skin. It often shows up as darkened patches—ranging from tan to deep brown or grey—following breakouts, cuts, burns, irritation, or certain skin conditions.

• Age Spots (aka Liver Spots): Another form of discolouration, age spots (also known as liver spots), are primarily associated with UV exposure, but also become more prevalent with age. They present as flat, dark spots or patches and appear in areas of high sun exposure such as the arms and hands.

NIOD’s well-studied formulations are engineered to work with the skin's natural processes to support even skin pigmentation, supporting a more balanced skin tone. This functional approach targets the underlying mechanisms of irregular skin tone, ensuring long-term improvement in skin tone and overall complexion. Explore some of our targeted formulations for addressing skin pigmentation:

Re: Pigment (RP)

Re: Pigment (RP) is an emollient solution that takes a multi-pathway approach to targeting dark spots. This dynamic approach enhances the connection between novel skin science and peptide technology to target signs of uneven pigmentation. 

Encapsulated Oligopeptide-68 is one of the key brightening ingredients in RP’s formulation. Its liposomal oligopeptide complex is a peptide made up of amino acids that enhances overall skin radiance.

Ethylated L-Ascorbic Acid 30% Network (ELAN)

Ethylated L-Ascorbic Acid 30% Network (ELAN) is a highly-concentrated brightening serum that uses stabilized Ethylated L-Ascorbic Acid (vitamin C) to fight against environmental stress, balancing visible discolouration, and reviving skin tone. 

Its core active brightening technology, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid significantly enhances skin brightness and radiance, and reduces visibility of dark spots

Non-Acid Acid Precursor 15% (NAAP) 

Non-Acid Acid Precursor 15% is a non-acidic alternative to acid-based exfoliators. Rather than using harsh ingredients, this formulation uses fermentation bio-derivatives and amino isolates (compounds produced as a result of fermentation), that encourage visible radiance and visible surface regularity. 

Its core active brightening technologies include Yeast Extract and Soy Amino Acids which support the natural exfoliation of the skin, help improve uneven skin tone, and enhance skin smoothness. 

Product: RP
Best for: Dark spots and uneven tone
Benefits: Targets pigmentation across multiple pathways
Use: Evening

Product: ELAN
Best for: Brightening and antioxidant support
Benefits: Visibly revives dull skin and supports skin barrier
Use: Morning

Product: NAAP
Best for: Gentle exfoliation
Benefits: Smooths texture and evens skin tone
Use: Evening

Dark spots and uneven pigmentation don’t fade overnight. Because skin renews itself slowly, visible changes often take time—sometimes several weeks or months. Consistent use of NIOD’s targeted formulations allows the skin to gradually respond, supporting a more even appearance over time.

Because irregular skin pigmentation and dark spots are some of the most complex skin concerns to treat, you may be inclined to use stronger active ingredients to address these issues. However, overuse of strong actives, like acids or retinoids, can cause irritation, inadvertently resulting in the development of even more discolouration. Consider performing a patch test before adding new formulations to your skincare regimen, and introducing new products gradually to allow your skin to adjust.

Sun protection is a fundamental component of any skincare regimen, and its importance cannot be overstated. Nearly all forms of skin discolouration are caused, or exacerbated by UV exposure. And while many factors contribute to irregular skin pigmentation, sun protection is one of the few variables within our control—making it a crucial step in maintaining an even and healthy complexion. 

Pigmentation concerns can be complex—but they don’t have to feel overwhelming. Rather than taking an aggressive approach, supporting the skin with well-considered formulations may offer a more balanced path.

For those looking to address the visible signs of uneven tone, NIOD offers several options. Re: Pigment (RP) focuses on targeted pathways. Ethylated L-Ascorbic Acid 30% Network offers antioxidant support through stabilised vitamin C. And Non-Acid Acid Precursor 15% provides gentle exfoliation—without the use of direct acids.

Explore our skin tone support formulations to find what may best suit your specific skin concerns. 

NOTES

1. These solutions are cosmetic options and not licensed medicines, however they may offer an effective solution for some individuals.
   
   
2. Always consider interaction with current medications or underlying conditions that may need treatment when finding a solution and consult your doctor if you’re unsure.